One month ago today @coryrichards (pictured) put on O's to continue pushing, motivating and inspiring me to stand on top of #Everest without supplemental oxygen. As I hang out in flip flops and shorts in Whistler with an all-star @eddiebauer team, the memories and feelings are still so strong. Thank you CR. I'm so damn stoked. #everestnofilter#liveyouradventure .
Want more from our super-secret project here in Whistler? Follow me on Snap - adrianjb
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So stoked to call this place home! AND to have spent the last couple weeks at home! Lake Tahoe is the ultimate year round playground. Join me and @alpenglowexpeditions this summer on Donner Summit for some rock climbing! We guide all abilities and experience levels, and would be stoked for you to join us here in California! Contact the Alpenglow office for more information, 877-873-5376 or email@example.com :@oldmantalbott#adventuredoneright
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Not my planned insty tonight. Came home to an open window, a very large mess, our kitchen destroyed, all the chocolate, ice cream and @epicbar eaten, and some quite large paw prints. The #tahoe bears are awake and hungry, and we screwed up by leaving our house open. Sorry bears. Please go back to the high country and berries. #mountainlife
@emilyaharrington flashing a solid game face for the just-above freezing mountain stream dip that should finish every good run. ♀️
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9 years living at the base of @squawalpine and somehow I've never been here. It was the early morning start of a perfect #tahoe summer day: coffee-bike-scramble-swim-more coffee-climb-run-more swim-more coffee-@alpenglowexpeditions planning session-tequila-thunderstorm-dinner-smile contentedly... all with EH of course
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*turn sound on!* - want a little more #EverestNoFilter? @sportscenter tonight on ESPN2 (June 19, 7pm Eastern/4pm Pacific) is featuring a one hour special from @coryrichards and my climb. I haven't seen the piece yet, but I know the footage from up high is unreal! #everest2017
It's a good thing @emilyaharrington and I aren't the least bit competitive. Because tomorrow we're both running the @brokenarrowskyrace! 52 kilometers (32 miles), 3,200meters (10,500 feet) of vertical gain, over 70% of the course snow covered, and all in our backyard @squawalpine. Running hasn't exactly been my focus the past few months. Hoping pain tolerance will make up for my lack of ability and training. Oh, and maybe trying to keep up with Em!
. @lasportivana#skyrunning#sportivaskyrunning .
. @iboyer, from a totally non-competitive jog in Ecuador a couple of years ago
5 years?!?! How did that even happen? And can we have 5 more? Or, you know, maybe a bunch more than that? Love you like crazy @emilyaharrington
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Just a couple of dorks getting hammered by 60mph winds in the backyard. It is so amazing to be home!
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Not sure about my running form, but I think my maniacal laugh of stoke is on point. Home and "training" for @brokenarrowskyrace. It's gonna be snowy! Good thing my @lasportivana Akashas are big fans of the white stuff.
Packaging a 2-month expedition into a presentable story always feels daunting and impossible, especially less than 24 hours after returning home. Luckily, for the 2nd year in a row, @stravarun has done it for us! With insightful interviews and editing, an athlete's sensibility, and loads of raw data, the team once again captured how our climb actually felt. If you have a few minutes, take a look! *LINK IN PROFILE* @estebantopomena
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41 hours, 1 summit, a dream realized, all with an amazing team. I think @coryrichards' photo, taken the moment I walked into ABC safe, captures all of this. I don't think I look quite as haggard today as in this moment, but the feelings of joy and appreciation are as strong as ever. #everestnofilter#everest2017 .
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NYC vibes 🕺 - i just feel so appreciative of all the support and love we received throughout this season. Even the New York media machine is nothing but warm and fuzzy. Loving life! #everestnofilter#everest2017 .
First interview of the day with @cbsthismorning - link in profile and we took over their insty story!
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Thanks to this guy - @estebantopomena - and his unending stoke, we have unreal footage from #everestnofilter. Topo's already summited without supplemental oxygen back in 2013. This season he was the guy with the camera (actually he was the guy with a @samsungmobileusa Galaxy S8) who shot regardless of cold, storms or how many hours we had been out for. He was also a voice of confidence and reason throughout my summit push and all season. Topo, I'm honored to have stood on top with you! #everest2017
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For two years on #Everest, its been @namgye who has had my back. Last year, when I turned at 8600m too cold to even be able to work the fixed lines, Palden Namgye was there to make sure I didn't blow it. This year, from Camp III to the top, and back down, Palden was there - quietly supporting, constantly praying (his chanting is the soundtrack of my summit day), never rushing me but always encouraging consistent movement. Spending 40 hours above 8000 meters, even with oxygen, is a commitment. I appreciate his. Thank you Palden! #everestnofilter#everest2017
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Last night was exactly how I dreamt it the past few weeks. Sitting in total comfort watching a stunning sunset eating a perfectly prepared meal with some of my closest friends who also share in the responsibility for me summiting, and getting back off, #Everest safely. I am truly content. #everestnofilter#everest2017
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Why #Everest? Why #EverestNoFilter? Why @coryrichards? Capturing why an expedition- the risk, the time away, the suffering - is worth it can be damn near impossible. This short video (link in profile), thanks to our @samsungmobileusa Galaxy S8's, comes as close as I can imagine to the feeling that makes it work. I've watched it a bunch the past 5 days since the summit, and I can't stop smiling. That pretty much sums it up. Heck yeah Cory Richards!
. @estebantopomena (of course )
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And just like that the mountain said go home and we listened. High altitude winds ripped the upper mountain today while clouds pounded the lower altitudes. It felt like #Everest wanted to remove all traces of humans' precense there in one violent swipe. .
As Cory and I begin a few days of travel from the mountain to NYC, 90% of me is reveling in success and happiness and looking forward to real rest and recovery and celebration. The other 10%? A bit scared. Everest has defined my life and schedule (training or climbing or recovering) for the past 10 years. With my 7th summit, and accomplishing my 25-year goal of summiting without O's, I sense a transition. Maybe it's time for a break? But life without Chomolongma is almost impossible to imagine...
@coryrichards...I have so many to thank for my summit success and safe descent. But none come close to Cory. We started this together 2 years ago. In 2016 he cruised to the summit of #Everest without supplemental oxygen after I turned around, and he made it look easy. This year he agreed to come back and try again while supporting me. It's hard to describe the sacrifice it takes to come back to the same mountain you've already summited. And to try again without O's...pure wild insanity. .
And then to have the humility to put on oxygen when the day was not right, solely to be on top with me when I was going to have to give everything...I am so humbled by Cory's generosity. Cory's fist bumps, howls, and cajoling were one of many keys to my success. Cheers Cory. Thank you. Let's go celebrate. #everestnofilter#everest2017
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Summit push was 41 hours without sleeping (Camp 3 at 27,000 feet is too dangerous to sleep without O's so we only spent 5 hours hydrating). 41 hours awake and climbing. So when the Second Step ladder showed up 25 hours in, it seemed as good a place as any for a quick nap Who knew you could fall asleep at 28,500 feet on a vertical ladder with thousands of feet of exposure below you?
I'M KIDDING I SWEAR! I didn't start falling asleep until the way down. More on that to come. #everestnofilter#everest2017
. @estebantopomena (of course)
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Summit. No supplemental oxygen. 10:58 AM, May 27, 2017. With my brothers @coryrichards, @estebantopomena (also photog ), and Palden Sherpa. So much more to say, but my brain isn't ready to process anything more than pain and gratitude right now. For now, if interested, check out summit snaps (for 24 hours everestnofilter) and summit biometric data (on @stravarun - strava.com/everestnofilter). #everestnofilter#everest2017
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You know we're above 8000 meters (26,000 feet) if even I'm wearing my mask. I hate how trapped I feel in it. But there is no doubt it warms and moisturizes the air we breathe up here. .
We are at C3 (27,000 feet/8300m). It was hard getting here. Im scared now. Just want to say thanks to all of you who follow and support. I read every comment and you guys kick ass. Hope I can make you proud! 4 hours until we climb for the summit. #everestnofilter#everest2017 .
Follow the summit climb in real time. @emilyaharrington will be posting snaps on everestnofilter as she gets updates from the mountain.
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So so close. The summit of #Everest is now less than 4,000 feet above us. 4,000 feet of elevation gain is normally a pre-breakfast jaunt. Here its going to be just a bit more than that - 36 hours from now seems like a reasonable goal. .
Our move to 25,000 feet felt mellow. A bit of discomfort (headache and nausea) now, but that's to be expected. Nothing a can of @hiballenergy won't fix
Let me start by apologizing if I'm a little bit punchy. I'm at 23,000 feet. Today should have been a day of joy - feeling strong on my #Everest summit push with my friends in perfect conditions. Instead I spent the day fuming, writing and rewriting in my head a fictional op-ed on Everest and why its time to speak out and why we have to clean up our house. So here's the short version. .
Today we heard of 4 more unnecessary deaths on the mtn. This brings the death toll this season to 10, with a vast majority totally avoidable. It pisses me off. My condolences to the victims and their loved ones. But silence is not the way to respect their deaths. We have to demand standards from the guide/logistics companies working on Everest. And while the newer cut-rate local companies are a big part of the problem, western guide companies have to set an example. American companies on both sides of the mountain this week made poor decisions that endangered their clients. They were companies led by non-certified guides. I watched clients of an American company come off the mountain today with frostbite and a failed summit bid. There is no excuse. Weather forecasts have for over a week predicted the winds that decimated camps on both sides of the mountain on the 23rd. .
Okay, so that's what pisses me off. What's the solution? 3 simple requirements:
1. Mountain guides should be AMGA/IFMGA certified. Experience is key. But experience should be built on education and examination.
2. Sherpa (High Altitude Workers) should be @khumbuclimbingcenter or Nepal Mountaineering Association certified.
3. Clients should meet minimum standards of experience (30 days on crampons, 10 days on rock, 3x6000m peaks, 1x7000m peak, 1x8000m peak).
We need to start calling out companies that dont meet these standards. Sure, certified guides and Sherpa cost more. And sure, our group sizes may shrink if we require minimum standards from our clients. But there will be fewer deaths. And we will be able to be proud of our profession once again. .
Everest media voices - @alan.arnette@natgeo@mensjournal@outsidemagazine - I hope you'll join me in spurring this conversation! #everestnofilter
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This is all that's left. Climb. We leave ABC tomorrow. 24th to N Col. 25th to C2. 26th to C3. And 27th summit! The 26-28 window is easily the best (lowest wind) of the season. So let's see if all the work and prep and patience pays off. It's going to be the no-O's day of the season, so keep an eye out for other no-O's friends as well: @ralfdujmovits@kilianjornet@sebmontazstudio@ferranlatorre
Before we go, I want to thank our #everestnofilter sponsors who made this expedition possible. Not only do they make world class products that we use every day. They also support us through all the ups and downs as we follow our dreams. Thank you @eddiebauer@samsungmobileusa@hiballenergy@stravarun
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#pro - if you don't follow @kilianjornet, stop reading this caption and go follow him. I'm lucky to be surrounded by some amazing athletes on a daily basis. But Kilian...wow. Today he made a 26-hour push from Base Camp to the summit of #Everest, without supplemental oxygen. This is superhuman. But three things make it even wilder. First, he suffered gastro distress throughout the summit push but somehow suffered through and still stood on top. Second, he thinks he can do it faster and hopes to recover in time to make another attempt before this season ends. Third, after 30+ hours awake and enduring real suffering, he still graciously signed autographs in ABC before sleeping or eating. I am so blown away, humbled and inspired for my attempt. Congratulations Kilian! #everestnofilter#everest2017
We're back! Reset done, bodies rested, coughs excised. Now we practice patience. A long, calm-wind, "warm" window is coming. It's not easy to wait as others take their turn. But that's what our instinct and experience says to do. Actually, most important, that's what our doctor and good luck charm @monica_piris insists we do. And we always listen! 🤓
As many climbers attempt their #Everest summit right now (hundreds are expected on the South Side, a few dozen on the North), in what appears to me to be a quite marginal (read shitty) summit window, I worry. I worry for clients who perhaps do not have the experience to make their own conservative decisions when conditions become too much. And I especially worry for High Altitude Workers (Sherpa and other ethnic groups) like this one. .
Our Sherpa have extensive training (thanks to @khumbuclimbingcenter), cutting edge equipment (thanks to @eddiebauer), solid leadership (thanks to @alpenglowexpeditions) and carry a max of 40lbs (18kg) to ensure they can move quickly and nimbly in the mountains. But this is unfortunately not the standard. With no regulation of HAW's on Everest, you often see inexperienced workers with inadequate equipment helping climbers that can't make the hard decisions up high. This is what leads to unnecessary accidents, on both sides of the mountain. .
Here's hoping for conservative decision-making, and a safe 72 to 96 hours. #everestnofilter#everest2017
Coming down to a lowly 14,000 feet to recover has been wild. Things live down here! The sun is warm! I can breathe! Vacation's almost over though. #everestnofilter#everest2017
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