Husband, dad, son & brother. Climber Athlete Team Capitan ~ The North Face Smartwool•Petzl•Yeti•Voke Tab ⛷be good be kind be happy
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At 18 @leo_houlding strolled in Yosemite Valley excited to climb. 19 years ago I was leaving the Valley for a season in Antarctica. I loaned him a ledge and haul bag and he an Patch dispatched "El Niño". ___________________
At 27 Leo and I visited Chomolungma in Tibet, climbing the Second Step sans ladder. Through this all Leo visited Yosemite annually, climbing all sorts of steep stuff and picking up the perilous pursuit of BASE jumping. While we live continents apart our friendship remained fast, held by the intensity of our passions.
With the passing of @seanleary and @deanpotter Leo wisely hung up his wing suit. BASE, in comparison to high altitude climbing, is not a "dad sport". ___________________
As of late Leo has switched to polar exploration with expeditions to Greenland and Antarctica. This coming year he plans to ski and kite to the TransAntarctic Range and climb the Specter, a peak mapped by the geologist Ed Stump and his late brother Mugs. With a journey to the ICE this austral summer we shared ideas and plans.
Leo stopped in for a visit to Montana with his wife @jessica_corrie, Freya and Jackson, their two adorable children. We were joined by Panuru and Passang Diki Sherpa of Phortse, Nepal.
We enjoyed seeing the family. The neighborhood kids loved meeting Freya, cute as button with an adorable accent and having 8 month old Jackson learn to crawl on our carpet.
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🏽 @uoa_huey standing in front of a 1969 UH-1N rescue ship out of the 40th Helicopter Squadron , Malmstrom AFB, Montana. The team flew to Red Lodge for the annual Montana Search and Rescue Rendezvous. Great to see the SAR community (professional and volunteer) meet and swap ideas. #40thhotelsierra#savinglives
This man. Respect.
Life goal realized. @alexhonnold ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
El Capitan in pure style. Amazing and incomprehensible. So solid. #freerider
@thenorthface has been my partner since in 1983. We've grown together and aimed to remain true to the values of wilderness and adventure. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
The decision by President Trump on the 1st of June 2017 for the United States to exit the Paris Climate Accord is against what I and the company I work with stand for. For all of my friends around the world: I apologize for this short sighted decision. We care about the future and see the need to work as one global community on this most serious challenge. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
I'll continue to advocate for reduced carbon emissions, work towards a smaller personal carbon footprint and stand up for the environment. Climbing and sliding around on snow aside, we need a healthy environment to survive. In 1975 The North Face created the Ice-9 Award based on Kurt Vonnegut 's "Cat's Cradle". It was a tongue in cheek nod to egregious government policy regarding the environment. The Atomic Energy Commission won it that year. It's time we bring this back. This decision by President Trump warrants a "gold star" for not recognizing the science of climate change, the public will for sustainability and ignoring the economic benefits of clean energy.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Apologies for the pause in normally scheduled programming. We'll get back to adventure soon enough. @protectourwinters
Hanging out in Anchorage, Alaska, May 1991. ST Shaw is holding Mikey as we return to civilization after an expedition to the Kichatna Spires. We skied to the range, climbed Middle Triple in foul weather and skied back out with slim food. Seth Thomas was the best when the chips were down. "It's not soo bad." was his reflective drawl to any adverse situation. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
May is heavy. The 21st was 25 years since Mugs moved on and the 25th is 17 years since ST left the physical. Alpine climbing intensifies life. We celebrate. Alpine climbing takes life. We mourn. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Happy to see the Little Acorn at Spanish Fork still serving Utah style shakes and fries amidst all the development. Had a shake in your honor ST.
17 May 1999 Dave Hahn 🏽 @davehahn.climb 🏼 below the summit of Chomolungma, Tibet. We were alone, the clouds were building and yet we were so happy.
Dave invited me to be part of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition around the first of March that year. Eric and the team @internationalmountainguides made for a fantastic journey. In 2012 Dave and I shared the summit in perfect weather. It was his 14th visit and my last go. Thanks Dave for the years of friendship - from the Ice to the Big Stone to the New Mexico sunsets. 🏼@khumbuclimbingcenter
Ueli Steck lived for climbing. The opportunity to try a new route was a source of motivation, one that all who experienced his presence were affected by. He raised the bar and we all strove to build the same increase into our own game with gravity.
Thanks for the inspiration.
With empathy for the parents, family and all who loved Ueli. @steckueli
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@alexhonnold is the world's best free solo climber. What in the world motivates him? It's a mystery to me, yet hopefully I'll pry a secret or two from the master when we present this Friday the 28th of April at @berkeleyironworks. We will share a combo slide show to support the @khumbuclimbingcenter. Free beer with admission and funds go to a good cause. selfie from the Capitan.
Flashback to that one day in 1998 when Anselme Baud and I skied the Western Ice Stream on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica. ⛷ Anselme is legend for his ski descents in the Mont Blanc Range. If jump turns on steep terrain in flannel shirts is your gig, check out the video (in link) of Anselme and Patrick Vallençant skiing the Arête de Peuterey back in the day. Nice video.
We were both guiding the the high point of the frozen continent and were waiting for the flight out. A thick ground fog had us grounded. Sensing the sky was clear above, we set out for a day of skiing. The main Ice Stream was calling. The ski descent was 2000 meters elevation change at a steady angle. For Anselme this was his birthday gift; he turned 50 while on the Ice. It was, by his estimation, the longest continuous descent he had the joy of skiing. On a personal level, I was able to play with a "ski extrem" hero and explore the range. Anselme is a kind and generous soul. The day we skied will always be close to my heart. Thanks Anselme. #neverstopexploring@thenorthface
It's not everyday I present in Texas, but when I do I like to keep it weird. Slide show tonight @yeti flagship store 220 South Congress in Austin Texas, 5-8. Show your support for the Texas Climbers Coalition, enter a mini raffle and share a smile.
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Strength comes in many forms. @jenniloweanker is a strong woman. Her love of family as a mother and spouse is the basis for her work as an artist and writer. The passion she has for helping others finds its place in activism and philanthropy, working tirelessly to see the @khumbuclimbingcenter to completion. Beautiful and confident each day is a new challenge that is welcomed with a smile. The happiest part of this is our love for each other. Trust, understanding, support, acceptance and kindness are the foundation of sixteen years together. I love you Jenni.
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This weekend's "honey do" project literally involved honey and the producers of this fine food, bees. @jenniloweanker 's holiday gift was a bee kit. Built a mini bee stand out of gneiss and stained the cedar box with tung oil. Our queen, workers and drones are on order from an apiary near Cedar City, Utah. Once the plants start blooming and the timing is right we will start the hive. Our little pollinators are facing a tough go. Loss of habitat, climate change, insecticides and disease are all making bee survival a matter of global importance. One-third of of the food we consume has a connection to bees. Our goal is to help out plants in a 5 mile - 8 kilometer radius and nurture a batch of bees. Knowing that 40% of hives fail we are not taking this for granted. Challenges are good for the human spirit. If you have dandelions in your yard please let them flourish. Bees benefit from these colorful plants. Stay tuned for my bee line. 🤓
March 28th is Father's Day in our house. Today would have been my dad's 89th birthday. While he is no longer with us, his love for my mom, our family and the outdoors abides. A snap from way when taken by my brother, @stevenanker, captured a moment atop Mt Hoffman in @yosemitenps. Wally lived for getting outdoors and hiking around. There was nothing that made him happier than having me carry a pack on a hike as he progressed in age and I was finding my stride. When he encouraged me to climb full time I had the confidence to seek a life of adventure. Thanks Wallers for the life lessons. Doing my best to share them with the boys. #love#respect#generationsofclimbers
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Gallatin Canyon gneiss is 2.5 billion years old. It was formed at about the same time atmospheric oxygen appeared. Oxygen, as we appreciate it in a breathable form, happened about 500 million years ago. Climbing on rock this old is a reminder of how insignificant humans are. We are changing the atmosphere by introducing increased amounts of CO2, creating a sudden change for the planet. Our insignificance is going to have serious consequences. Tiny and big view at the same time. @tsthomson enjoying the exposure and view from Skyline.
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It's a wrap. A week of rain and valley temps in the 60s has melted the ice in Hyalite Canyon. For the dedicated looking to scamper up low angle ice there is still a few flows worth hiking to. Otherwise it's time to hold onto rock. The February 2017 Global Temperature Report states the Contiguous U.S. experienced the warmest February in past 39 Years. We feel it. Spring has sprung. @manoahainuu on the Fat One. Thanks @hyalitecanyon for the good times. @protectourwinters@thenorthface
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We stand on the shoulders of those that came before us. Royal Robbins was integral to the golden age of Yosemite climbing. From the NW Face of Half Dome, the Salathé and NA Walls on El Cap to the genre shifting free climb of the NutCracker Royal defined clean and free climbing. Layer up a devotion to the environment and wild kayaking, Royal played all his cards. To his family and friends: empathy and respect. Photo by his good friend Tom Frost, early 60s. You forged the route of life with conviction. We will all follow.
On the 13th of March 1996 my friend Alex Lowe called to share the news of the boy that @jenniloweanker had just delivered to the world. This man, @iloweanker, four years later through a twist of fate would become part of my life as I became part of his life. Over the following years we would grow close through shared adventures, love for family and my steady drive to encourage Isaac to excel in life.
Today, with his brothers @max.lowe and @sam_loweanker we celebrate 21 orbits around the furnace in the sky. While it's rite of passage as the government allows fermented beverages, it means more to our family. It's sharing our roots. It's setting out for distant horizons to discover the self. And it's being a catalyst for positive change.
Thanks for being a son. @mayzosaurus (thank you)
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perfect hands 🏼
cruiser fists 🏼
Yeah for women! On occasion of International Women's Day special thanks to these two moms. Raising children is at the core of their being. For Jenni, my spouse, thanks for raising three boys with a sense of purpose & dignity and caring for me with love. For Helga, my mother, thanks for encouraging me to find my calling and helping me realize my dreams. Both of you get extra & for understanding this game with gravity I play. That you both love crime solving TV shows with female protagonists and talk to the dogs in your own special dog voice is ever warming. Love you both! @jenniloweanker#momsarethebest
The presence of squirrels running on snow and birds singing in the forest is most calming. Thank you @michiganicefest for hosting the mid West climber meet up. While hucking laps on steep ice is what keeps us sane and fit, it is the happiness from our community that makes event special. The trust climbing is based on breaks down assumptions and stereo types. Once you've shared the joy of gravity in the vertical realm you have an immediate connection with fellow climbers. It's like belaying is this secret handshake of kindness. 🦉For the lifers ⚔️, @anniegilbertchase, @icevince, #angelaVM, @carlosbuhler, @timemmett , #marcusgarcia, @karstendelap, @realwillgadd and many more, welcoming novice climbers to the fold is intrinsically rewarding. Rather than view more climbers as less climbing for myself (cliffs are a finite resource and the ice season is shorter each year) new friends in the outdoors equate to happier and kinder folks in society. And what's not to like about that? The UP waterfall ice is world class - an amazing setting on Lake Superior @picturedrocksnps. Thank you rangers for your help and assistance with a wonderful weekend. @puremichigan@thenorthface@petzl_official@down_wind_sports
Here's looking at you! @kailightner is a fellow @bluewaterropes climber. He recently won the youth bouldering and took second in nationals. Kai is hella strong & lanky. His motivation for climbing is on par with his dedication to knowledge and education. It's always uplifting to see Kai at the comps and share time with him. Psyched to see the direction our sport is heading. #dontletgo#kindness
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A dzo is a hybrid between a yak and domestic cattle. In Nepal, Tibet and Mongolia they are used as pack animals and a source of milk and meat. Baby yaks and dzos are a source of food for the yeti, the legendary ape like glacier being. Having folklore be part of your life is human. Wether the yeti or "abominable snowman" exists is beyond the scope of social media. What does exist are the hardworking people and their animals of the Himalaya and @yeti coolers.
After transporting cheese and apples for the LunagRi expedition with @davidlama_official this cooler is now with @tenzing99. Not having a refrigerator this well insulated cooler is the ideal way to keep food fresh. #builtforthewild#tbt
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Chad Umbel exiting "Tourist Trap" at Camp Bird in Ouray, Colorado. Just prior to this snapshot a massive avalanche careened off the opposite mountain. The cliff and cave we were climbing at was plastered with snow. Always inspiring and humbling to experience the power of nature.
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