Husband, dad, son & brother. Climber Athlete Team Capitan ~ The North Face Smartwool•Petzl•Yeti•Voke Tab ⛷be good be kind be happy
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As a kid my "active disposition" had my parents "climbing up the walls". Walls ended up freeing this frenetic energy as I began a decades long dance with gravity. The risk inherent in climbing forced me to focus on the moment and understand the severity of the situation. The community of climbers shared this passion of challenging oneself and as a young adult, I found my tribe. The basic tenants of climbing - trust, clarity, honesty, preparation, communication and teamwork all resonated with me in a way that sports with referees and whistles didn't. The climbers I met supported each other with encouragement. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ With this spirit of collaboration in mind @thenorthface is teaming up with @trustforpublicland to share these values in public parks. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
To kick off the program I'll be visiting 🏽 @theclifslic with @ashimashiraishi & @dawoods89 on Saturday the 19th of August. Join up. Try a problem. Spot a friend. Share happiness. Climb a wall!
Minneapolis - slide show - tribe gathering - 10 August Wiley Auditorium @universityofminnesota 6 PM.
Join @midwest_mountaineering and @thenorthface for "Meru Ad Lib". It won't be the film, it wont be rehearsed and it will unlock the inner workings of a couscous based diet. /joking\ Sullivan is a junior fan who sent me a copy of his school report after watching Meru. (His parents are OK with 4 letter words) 🏽🏽🏽No promise I'll teach you how to Climb a Mountain. Yet it will be a fun way to support the Lake Superior Hiking Trail. #freeposters#scottbackes will be in the house.... #itwillbebigly
Chris ( @muledragger ) is a man who does what he loves and loves what he does. For Chris working as an electrical contractor is the way to keep his string of 9 mules healthy and happy.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Being a mule packer isn't about "$tacking phat cheddar". The days are long, require a strong back and attention to detail. Lucky for @jenniloweanker we met Chris via @instagram and planned a trip to the fabled Bob Marshall Wilderness of NW Montana. This past weekend we went back in time. No phone, no gadgets, just a few winsome mules and conversation around the campsite. With fire restrictions in place we missed the primal cable channel yet found plenty of stuff to chat about. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Like learning that Amish breed mules to be integral to their non mechanized life. That mules are sure footed as all get out. That if you care for your animals they will care for you. That a good dust bath is the best antidote to carrying 10% of your body weight through the forest.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Our team of @stenanderson, his daughter Solveig and LeeAnn went back a century or two. A full moon with a variety of wildlife calling is a great way to be reminded of the human place on our planet. Mistreat your animal and you'll get a swift kick. Mistreat our planet and, similarly, we'll get a swift kick. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Thanks for the experience Chris. Walking out to visit the mules for a morning nuzzle and ear scratch is as good as it gets. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ 🏽 🏽@yeti for bear proof coolers.
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Haystack Butte is a landmark for the Blackfeet Nation. Visible from miles around it serves as a guide point on the north / south track.
Heading into the Bob Marshall Wilderness with @muledragger. Mission is to explore some cliffs and hang out with a bunch friends. @stenanderson@jenniloweanker
Paplio Rutulus, the Western Tiger Swallowtail butterfly is common in western North America. This morning on a hike this gentle butterfly dined on a thistle bloom. Unperturbed by our presence, it went on foraging for nectar as they have for thousands of years before. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Hiking on public lands is where I experience wild life. Both the flora and fauna that create the majestic tapestry of life are evident in the lands we collectively share. My guess is the majority of US citizens visit public lands to experience nature. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Public lands in the US are managed by a variety of agencies with a diversity of purpose. From timber harvest, to coal & gas leasing, to grazing, to motorized recreation, to human powered recreation - land managers are tasked with balancing a range of uses. Within all of this there is an obligation to care for the natural state of wilderness. While I marvel at the life cycle of butterflies and bears (humans don't pupate or hibernate) there is a part of my soul that cares for them. They cannot ask the Secretary of the Interior, Ryan Zinke, to honor National Monuments created by the Antiquities Act of 1906. It is up to us.
The Bears Ears Monument established by former President Obama is one place that deserves the recognition and protection a monument brings. For the myriad forms of life and the ancestral inhabitants, this area needs our protection. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
We have until 9 July 2017 to register our input to the national register. Theodore Roosevelt, the 26th President of the United States, championed to protect the natural treasures of this nation. Let your voice be heard. Speak up for your favorite animal. Next time you see one, imagine them thanking you. @usinterior@usdagov
A year ago today @jenniloweanker and I were enroute home from Tibet. Along with our three boys, @max.lowe, @sam_loweanker and @iloweanker, we visited the south side of Shishapangma to attend to the bodies of Alex Lowe and David Bridges. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀The journey was heavy. The weight of being survivors wrung us out the three weeks before. The intensity of the cremation, while deep respect to David and Alex, left us hollow. It was the most profound moment in our life as a family. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The displacement for what transpired has meaning. It's not obvious, nor should it be. Death is ever present. It frames our life. As someone who lives on the edge, mortality is ever present.
Thank you Jenni for your love. I would be lost with out you. Boys - the future is yours. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
A poem from Rabindranath Tagore:
"I slept and I dreamed that all life is joy.
I woke and I saw that life is all service.
I served and I saw that service is joy."
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At 18 @leo_houlding strolled in Yosemite Valley excited to climb. 19 years ago I was leaving the Valley for a season in Antarctica. I loaned him a ledge and haul bag and he an Patch dispatched "El Niño". ___________________
At 27 Leo and I visited Chomolungma in Tibet, climbing the Second Step sans ladder. Through this all Leo visited Yosemite annually, climbing all sorts of steep stuff and picking up the perilous pursuit of BASE jumping. While we live continents apart our friendship remained fast, held by the intensity of our passions.
With the passing of @seanleary and @deanpotter Leo wisely hung up his wing suit. BASE, in comparison to high altitude climbing, is not a "dad sport". ___________________
As of late Leo has switched to polar exploration with expeditions to Greenland and Antarctica. This coming year he plans to ski and kite to the TransAntarctic Range and climb the Specter, a peak mapped by the geologist Ed Stump and his late brother Mugs. With a journey to the ICE this austral summer we shared ideas and plans.
Leo stopped in for a visit to Montana with his wife @jessica.corrie, Freya and Jackson, their two adorable children. We were joined by Panuru and Passang Diki Sherpa of Phortse, Nepal.
We enjoyed seeing the family. The neighborhood kids loved meeting Freya, cute as button with an adorable accent and having 8 month old Jackson learn to crawl on our carpet.
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🏽 @uoa_huey standing in front of a 1969 UH-1N rescue ship out of the 40th Helicopter Squadron , Malmstrom AFB, Montana. The team flew to Red Lodge for the annual Montana Search and Rescue Rendezvous. Great to see the SAR community (professional and volunteer) meet and swap ideas. #40thhotelsierra#savinglives
This man. Respect.
Life goal realized. @alexhonnold ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
El Capitan in pure style. Amazing and incomprehensible. So solid. #freerider
@thenorthface has been my partner since in 1983. We've grown together and aimed to remain true to the values of wilderness and adventure. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
The decision by President Trump on the 1st of June 2017 for the United States to exit the Paris Climate Accord is against what I and the company I work with stand for. For all of my friends around the world: I apologize for this short sighted decision. We care about the future and see the need to work as one global community on this most serious challenge. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
I'll continue to advocate for reduced carbon emissions, work towards a smaller personal carbon footprint and stand up for the environment. Climbing and sliding around on snow aside, we need a healthy environment to survive. In 1975 The North Face created the Ice-9 Award based on Kurt Vonnegut 's "Cat's Cradle". It was a tongue in cheek nod to egregious government policy regarding the environment. The Atomic Energy Commission won it that year. It's time we bring this back. This decision by President Trump warrants a "gold star" for not recognizing the science of climate change, the public will for sustainability and ignoring the economic benefits of clean energy.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Apologies for the pause in normally scheduled programming. We'll get back to adventure soon enough. @protectourwinters
Hanging out in Anchorage, Alaska, May 1991. ST Shaw is holding Mikey as we return to civilization after an expedition to the Kichatna Spires. We skied to the range, climbed Middle Triple in foul weather and skied back out with slim food. Seth Thomas was the best when the chips were down. "It's not soo bad." was his reflective drawl to any adverse situation. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
May is heavy. The 21st was 25 years since Mugs moved on and the 25th is 17 years since ST left the physical. Alpine climbing intensifies life. We celebrate. Alpine climbing takes life. We mourn. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Happy to see the Little Acorn at Spanish Fork still serving Utah style shakes and fries amidst all the development. Had a shake in your honor ST.
17 May 1999 Dave Hahn 🏽 @davehahn.climb 🏼 below the summit of Chomolungma, Tibet. We were alone, the clouds were building and yet we were so happy.
Dave invited me to be part of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition around the first of March that year. Eric and the team @internationalmountainguides made for a fantastic journey. In 2012 Dave and I shared the summit in perfect weather. It was his 14th visit and my last go. Thanks Dave for the years of friendship - from the Ice to the Big Stone to the New Mexico sunsets. 🏼@khumbuclimbingcenter
Ueli Steck lived for climbing. The opportunity to try a new route was a source of motivation, one that all who experienced his presence were affected by. He raised the bar and we all strove to build the same increase into our own game with gravity.
Thanks for the inspiration.
With empathy for the parents, family and all who loved Ueli. @steckueli
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@alexhonnold is the world's best free solo climber. What in the world motivates him? It's a mystery to me, yet hopefully I'll pry a secret or two from the master when we present this Friday the 28th of April at @berkeleyironworks. We will share a combo slide show to support the @khumbuclimbingcenter. Free beer with admission and funds go to a good cause. selfie from the Capitan.
Flashback to that one day in 1998 when Anselme Baud and I skied the Western Ice Stream on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica. ⛷ Anselme is legend for his ski descents in the Mont Blanc Range. If jump turns on steep terrain in flannel shirts is your gig, check out the video (in link) of Anselme and Patrick Vallençant skiing the Arête de Peuterey back in the day. Nice video.
We were both guiding the the high point of the frozen continent and were waiting for the flight out. A thick ground fog had us grounded. Sensing the sky was clear above, we set out for a day of skiing. The main Ice Stream was calling. The ski descent was 2000 meters elevation change at a steady angle. For Anselme this was his birthday gift; he turned 50 while on the Ice. It was, by his estimation, the longest continuous descent he had the joy of skiing. On a personal level, I was able to play with a "ski extrem" hero and explore the range. Anselme is a kind and generous soul. The day we skied will always be close to my heart. Thanks Anselme. #neverstopexploring@thenorthface
It's not everyday I present in Texas, but when I do I like to keep it weird. Slide show tonight @yeti flagship store 220 South Congress in Austin Texas, 5-8. Show your support for the Texas Climbers Coalition, enter a mini raffle and share a smile.
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Strength comes in many forms. @jenniloweanker is a strong woman. Her love of family as a mother and spouse is the basis for her work as an artist and writer. The passion she has for helping others finds its place in activism and philanthropy, working tirelessly to see the @khumbuclimbingcenter to completion. Beautiful and confident each day is a new challenge that is welcomed with a smile. The happiest part of this is our love for each other. Trust, understanding, support, acceptance and kindness are the foundation of sixteen years together. I love you Jenni.
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This weekend's "honey do" project literally involved honey and the producers of this fine food, bees. @jenniloweanker 's holiday gift was a bee kit. Built a mini bee stand out of gneiss and stained the cedar box with tung oil. Our queen, workers and drones are on order from an apiary near Cedar City, Utah. Once the plants start blooming and the timing is right we will start the hive. Our little pollinators are facing a tough go. Loss of habitat, climate change, insecticides and disease are all making bee survival a matter of global importance. One-third of of the food we consume has a connection to bees. Our goal is to help out plants in a 5 mile - 8 kilometer radius and nurture a batch of bees. Knowing that 40% of hives fail we are not taking this for granted. Challenges are good for the human spirit. If you have dandelions in your yard please let them flourish. Bees benefit from these colorful plants. Stay tuned for my bee line. 🤓
March 28th is Father's Day in our house. Today would have been my dad's 89th birthday. While he is no longer with us, his love for my mom, our family and the outdoors abides. A snap from way when taken by my brother, @stevenanker, captured a moment atop Mt Hoffman in @yosemitenps. Wally lived for getting outdoors and hiking around. There was nothing that made him happier than having me carry a pack on a hike as he progressed in age and I was finding my stride. When he encouraged me to climb full time I had the confidence to seek a life of adventure. Thanks Wallers for the life lessons. Doing my best to share them with the boys. #love#respect#generationsofclimbers
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Gallatin Canyon gneiss is 2.5 billion years old. It was formed at about the same time atmospheric oxygen appeared. Oxygen, as we appreciate it in a breathable form, happened about 500 million years ago. Climbing on rock this old is a reminder of how insignificant humans are. We are changing the atmosphere by introducing increased amounts of CO2, creating a sudden change for the planet. Our insignificance is going to have serious consequences. Tiny and big view at the same time. @tsthomson enjoying the exposure and view from Skyline.
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It's a wrap. A week of rain and valley temps in the 60s has melted the ice in Hyalite Canyon. For the dedicated looking to scamper up low angle ice there is still a few flows worth hiking to. Otherwise it's time to hold onto rock. The February 2017 Global Temperature Report states the Contiguous U.S. experienced the warmest February in past 39 Years. We feel it. Spring has sprung. @manoahainuu on the Fat One. Thanks @hyalitecanyon for the good times. @protectourwinters@thenorthface
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We stand on the shoulders of those that came before us. Royal Robbins was integral to the golden age of Yosemite climbing. From the NW Face of Half Dome, the Salathé and NA Walls on El Cap to the genre shifting free climb of the NutCracker Royal defined clean and free climbing. Layer up a devotion to the environment and wild kayaking, Royal played all his cards. To his family and friends: empathy and respect. Photo by his good friend Tom Frost, early 60s. You forged the route of life with conviction. We will all follow.