A hot lap up our little cliff to break in my new alpine-sized rock shoes. Thanks @lasportivana!
They say the Great Gorge is chossy... and, yeah, they're mostly right about that. But occasionally there are pockets of clean granite, and this pitch was one of them. @renan_ozturk enjoying some unexpected Type 1 fun while climbing the Southeast Buttress of Mt. Dickey with @alexhonnold & I in 2013. We shall return to this mountain. #lastgreatproblem@firstname.lastname@example.org
One thing I'll remember about Ueli, he was always stretching. In basecamp, at tea houses and on hotel lawns, wherever. You can hang out in a lot of basecamps the world over, where people are living in tents and generally abusing their bodies for weeks on end, and never see a mountaineer take the time to do this. Ueli brought Olympic-level training and preparation to the highest and gnarliest mountains on Earth, and like any great athlete, it was obvious he enjoyed the process of training, the geeking-out on workouts and spreadsheets at home between expeditions, almost as much as he loved the climbing itself. #uelisteck
Back in my other life, we dropped some coin and added a brand new color (our eighth!) to the climbing palette at @saltpumpclimbing -- Red. It's fascinating to me how climbing holds have evolved over the years to the point that the combined creativity of hold shapers & route setters has created a separate and unique discipline of the sport. #saltpumpclimbing
Maddog reveling in the glory of it all while cruising a rock band in the middle portion of our route on Russell. For a rack we brought 3 pins, eight nuts and six screws, and I can honestly say I never got scared or wished we had more gear... That's about as type-1 fun as alpinism gets! #splitterville#russellramble@the_hoarding_marmot@clifbar
If you sit in basecamp waiting for a perfect forecast, you'll never climb anything! Maddog following one of the tricky bits of ridge climbing on summit day on Mt. Russell in a gathering storm. Oddly, I don't remember it being as gnarly as it looks now in the photos... Oh well: they say one of the best attributes for a successful alpinist is to have a short memory. #russellramble@the_hoarding_marmot@mountainhardwear@clifbar
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First evening on the Saco this year. No action but it was magical all the same.
I met Leighan at basecamp the spring of 2003. My crew had defiantly pitched camp a couple hundred yards up glacier from the usual flock of West Buttress expeditions. We spent a few weeks living there, alternately throwing ourselves at the North Buttress of Mount Hunter and partying in our snow cave lair. Leighan was on a volunteer patrol despite her seemingly shy disposition, she proved one of the only people in basecamp capable of keeping up with our ruckus... 14 years later, it's awesome to still be funhogging around the AK Range with her, and so many of our original crew. Thanks to @yeti and @camp4collective for helping us share her story. Link in profile. #denaliraven@kirstenakremer@renan_ozturk@the_hoarding_marmot@alaskamountaineeringschool@talkeetnaair@email@example.com
Here's one more of Ueli doing his thing in the spring of 2012, with the Everest massif behind. It's fitting that the Khumbu Valley is his final resting place now, as he was cremated at Tengboche Monastery yesterday. I can remember chasing him up the steep hill that leads to the Monastery like it was yesterday, each of us rocking out to music on IPods as the pace kept increasing. I can hear him saying "ah, the Khumbu Walley, it's so nice here...", his Swiss German accent rolling the V of valley into a W.
I took this one of Ueli descending the SW Ridge of Cholatse in a gathering storm after we climbed its North face in 2011.
Farewell buddy. I feel lucky we shared a few summits along the way.
When you're a two man team scouting an unclimbed face above a remote glacier in the middle of nowhere, Alaska... you tie knots in your rope, just in case there's a crevasse lurking out there with your name on it. #russellramble //
Thanks to my buddies at @sterlingrope for specially treating an 80 meter 7 mm rope with their new dry treatment so I could take it to AK this spring. Part of alpinism is doing everything possible to save weight, and the rope(s) are often the single heaviest item you carry up the mountain. Kudos to Sterling for pushing the technology to make every ounce count.
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I've been seeing wildlife just about every day on our hill... Everyone's excited for spring I suspect. #shabinliving
The rime formations guarding Mt Russell's summit are unique compared to snow features on other peaks in the Alaska Range. At 11,600 feet tall, Russell sneaks under the radar compared to more popular objectives closer to Denali... Somehow, amazingly, it had only three established routes before our ascent, and the best guess from Talkeetna locals is that the mountain had not been summited in 5 years. #russellramble
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In recent years, Maddog (aka @the_hoarding_marmot) has turned his focus to business entrepeneurship. His newly opened store, The Hoarding Marmot, sells the very best in recycled outdoor gear to the good people of Anchorage, Alaska. It'd been 14 years since we first climbed in the Alaska Range together. #russellramble
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I just returned from a micro expedition with Maddog to this beauty, the South Ridge of Mt. Russell.... Couldn't ask for a better vacation. #russellramble