"I think that’s what I find very strange about this world. No one ever says how they feel. They hurt but they don’t cry out. They’re happy but they don’t dance or jump around. And they’re angry but they hardly ever scream… because they’d feel ashamed and nothing’s worse than that! So we walk around with our heads looking down and never look up and see how beautiful the sky is." #nosurfclimbmountains#itslonelyatthetop#summitmthugom
"In the world that I come from nothing’s predictable. Sometimes everything’s crowding in on you so you have to hunch in on something small and certain and… safe. In your world almost everything’s controlled but for us it’s all a jumble and sometimes you have to scream." #uluwatu#hightide#dudewheresyourboard
"When you go through a hard period... When everything seems to oppose you.. When you feel you cannot even bear one more minute. NEVER GIVE UP!
Because it is the time and place that the course will divert!" #steadyasshegoes#whowantshalf#surfandsail